Hammersma knows that the glass determines the taste of the wine: “Red wine likes to have a little more space” | Cooking and eating

daily Hit Parole He sent me for years to test the quality of terrace wines in metropolitan establishments. In addition to naming the winners, I introduced the concept of “Duralex penalty points” to readers. There is nothing to compromise the physical quality of this glassware, but it is not suitable as a wine glass. The Picardy model in particular was a popular choice at the time among operators who wanted to emphasize the informal style of their catering formula.

However, to me, it was an indication that wine was not taken seriously at that title. First of all, such a clumsy faceted glass “spoils” the beautiful color view of the contents. In addition, the wine cannot be twisted to release the delicious bouquet, due to the lack of a stem. Moreover, the hand closing around the glass raises the temperature of the wine in the glass, the fingers leave greasy traces and the wine suddenly smells like gym, ethos or patchouli due to recently used hand cream or soap. In short, if I received my “balcony wine” in such a glass, a full point would be immediately deducted from the score.

Am I a fundamentalist? No, although I once attended a fascinating presentation at the Riedel family's Austrian glass factory (built in 1756). It has a good reputation in Glassland. “For a talented winemaker, making good wine is already a lot of effort. This can simply be undone if the wine is poured into the wrong glass, that is their creed.

To create the “World's Best Wine Glasses,” they have gone so far as to develop a specific wine glass for almost every common grape variety. So I started an exchange program with them. I poured pinot noir from their burgundy glass into a Rheingau Riesling glass, only to discover that I got a completely different wine in return. Shorter, less fruity, sacrificing complexity. Chardonnay loses its character in a Bordeaux glass and vice versa. We passed a grape or so.

As for the daily practice of evaluating wine, this is overkill for me. Instead of tasting and writing, I spent all day polishing glasses. To evaluate thousands of different wines under “the same conditions”, I taste whites, rosés and reds, regardless of grape or blend, in the so-called Riedel Venum Chianti, a glass that is also used in the world's most important tastings. world.

Why is this model so cute? The most important thing is that it has a nice big glass, so that the wine can be seen and smelled clearly. And then the wine lover was already on his way. It's not very small. The stem is approximately the length of the cup itself: 10 cm. There is at least a wine glass on the table whose shape and size matches the wine.

I personally use the crystal version of Riedel, but there are still a number of brands in the Champions League of wine glass makers. For example, one colleague swears by Zalto glass products, while another praises Gabriel or Spigelau.

But does it have to be all that expensive to really enjoy it? no. To save some space, let's first arrange the “medium” Dutch glass cabinet. We often find a few different wine glasses out there. An antique that belonged to my grandmother. Moreover, such a small balloon on a very short leg. A light green souvenir from a holiday in Crete. It appears to be made of double glazing. And something huge that must have once contained a small cactus. Go, put it in the bottle bank.

Therefore, we can now place at least four of the same glasses for white in this vacant place. Actually, four. Anyone who pours wine into good glasses gets more visitors. These glasses do not have to be made of crystal. Thin glass is also good. Simply thin gives a more pleasant texture. Schott-Zwiesel offers an affordable option with “Fortissimo”. Otherwise, there are cheap analogues in circulation. With the royal work Leerdam 'Nobel', for example.

Thus, the most common types of white wine (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo, Pinot Grigio) feel at home in a not-so-large glass, where the glass tapers slightly. This way the smells don't dissipate as quickly. Bonus: White wine in a smaller glass stays cold longer. And yes, roses are allowed there too.

Reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo) like a little more space. The stem of such a glass is a little longer, the cup is a little larger, and the opening is a little wider. This way it can be rolled, more oxygen gets into the glass and the wine presents a more generous bouquet.

Finally, there is the flute. Nowadays, sparkling wine is increasingly served in a “plain” white wine glass, but the ballerina has not yet been crossed out among the wine glasses.

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Moreover, it seems as if the cut – for which Marie Antoinette's left breast is said to have been the model – is making a comeback. I have already been offered champagne this way on several “important matters”. But I find that the bubbles dissipate too quickly and the contents heat up too quickly. “It doesn't matter,” was my answer.

Finally, after the fun, the dishes are waiting. But never put new wine glasses in the cabinet upside down. Ten to one that the next time the glass will smell like old wood paneling, antique wax, sticky plastic or high-gloss paint. So: turn the glass over and everything will fall into place.

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